Emily grew up in the Riverside neighborhood of Buffalo, along the Niagara River. This area was once farmland, then developed into a working class suburb through the 1950s. Once the highway was built along the river, Riverside became a bypassed neighborhood. The house behind Emily was where her grandmother lived, and she had it tattooed onto her arm. The day she got her tattoo she happened to meet the young woman who had recently moved in from Eritrea with her family. Emily got to visit the house again and have tea.
This particular location is part of North Buffalo, a suburban-like, walkable neighborhood within the city. Floppy Norway Spruces dot the landscapes, as they are a fast growing way to create boundaries between neighbors and shield bedroom windows from busy streets.
The three things that bring kids together in North Buffalo are: bubbles, lemonade stands and sidewalk chalk. It’s a family friendly neighborhood with the most competitive housing market in one of the most segregated cities in the country.
Swarms of gnats under street lamps are the depiction of Buffalo’s humid summer nights. I’ve read that it’s only the male insects that swarm, making themselves available to mate. Unrelated, they were in front of my neighbor’s house. About six months after they moved in we realized that my husband traveled to Prague in the year 2000 with the guy who lives there, and they’d lost touch.
Walking through a heavy-hitting weather place like Buffalo in the summer is the most beautiful transformation; stoops and yards burst with personality and charm. This home, in the neighborhood of Black Rock, is located near old cobblestone streets. Black Rock’s proximity to the river with Canada on the other side made it an important location for crossing on the Underground Railroad.
The pocket of Central Park, Buffalo, is home to mansions and manicured lawns. Its name from the late 1800s is due to its central location in relation to Olmstead-designed Delaware Park. Entering this neighborhood presents a stark contrast to many parts of the city that has suffered from neglect, especially the east side.
Buffalo loves its public concerts, and on a night of the philharmonic summer show, I was invited to a backyard party off the street while walking with my camera.
In the basement of St Marks and All Saints Church in the upper west side of Buffalo, folks organized a Really Really Free Market, where you set up a table of your stuff to give away. Churches are still a vibrant place for togetherness and community in Buffalo.
I met Flo in the Taco Bell parking lot on his way to work at the art supply store. We chatted about his art work, and the protest he attended the day before in support of Nex Benedict.
On the corner of Main Street and Hertel Avenue in Buffalo, a huge new building was erected in 2024 called the Rails. It’s so long that if propped up, it would be a skyscraper. The building itself was not interesting to photograph, but this family watching them work was, as they waited for the bus in front of a piano shop.
North Buffalo is a community that leans liberal, and I have noticed the trend to fly supportive flags and stake in open minded lawn signs. I have also learned not to put the shovel away until May.
Folks are proud to be Buffalonians and the symbol of a Buffalo is everywhere from the Bills Mafia to adorned couch pillows and bumper stickers. Buffalo is also a place that people come back to, a forever home.
Hertel Avenue in Buffalo connects the Niagara River all the way to Main Street and used to have a trolley car. Now it’s a stop and go main drag spanning the gamut of local shops, box stores, restaurants, school, apartments, churches, and industry.
On the quieter city streets in Black Rock, kids ride their bikes shoeless because it’s summer and they can.
In 2024 Buffalo was in the path of totality for the total solar eclipse. Schools were out for the day, eclipse glasses were handed out at the libraries and at school smart teachers helped kids make easy-to-wear protective fashions.
In 2024, The Buffalo Catholic Diocese closed 70 churches, but St John’s in Black Rock is still open. It’s a huge Gothic Revival masterpiece rebuilt in 1892 after a fire; it looms over a residential neighborhood.
On a spring day in March it was the perfect time to prune unruly bushes, as Noorul was doing outside his home.
On Carmel Ave in North Buffalo there is a monastery that used to house silent nuns, but after 103 years they moved to Florida to enjoy swimming in the pool in their habits. (I saw a photo from their realtor.)
Eddie was in Delaware Park one November day with his organization called Combat Historia. They are a foam combat organization inspired by medieval societies, and the fun that they were having sparring in the park was contagious as passersby stopped to take notice.
On a walk in the Parkside neighborhood of Buffalo, I was marveling at the most immaculate lawn and garden when its owner emerged, saw my camera, nodded and silently gifted me this moment before heading inside.
Kenmore is a northern suburb that borders Buffalo, and has one of the last remaining bowling alleys in the city that was built in the late 1950s.
Every year this bougainvillea returns full force for the summer, like a celebration of time, restoring itself in the spotlight after the doldrums of winter.
My grandmother grew hydrangeas, and to me, they are a thing of wonderful beauty. Due to the intensity of the four seasons in Buffalo, folks love their summer gardens, porches and wearing shorts as soon as they can.
Faben was waiting in Burke’s Green, a tiny triangular park with a well maintained fountain, for her clients to emerge from Clara’s Closet, a refugee- centered space that provides gently used and sometimes brand new clothing, hygiene products and home goods.
I’ve lived in Buffalo since 2015, and moved from a liberal Brooklyn bubble to yet another left leaning enclave in a city, but with a more midWestern feel. The past ten years have been hard, confusing and disheartening, and it has made me question what it means to be American.